I purchased the brother coverstitch machine. I am finally able to sit down and use it. I am having a problem with not being able to have threads release at the end of stitching. The only way they will release is to move the looper to the threading position, then they will release. Karen
Karen, there are various ways of ending stitches on your Brother 2340CV coverstitch machine. For chaining off you can hold the fabric and coverstitch chain behind the foot with finger pull tension while sewing off, or sew off onto a scrap of fabric/tissue paper.
For tacking at the end of seams, flip the fabric to sew over your previous stitch line, or even turn the hand wheel backwards a few stitches to lock..
If you want to release threads at the end of a seam, you can lift the presser foot up and rock the handwheel back and forth while pulling on all 4 threads, move the looper to the threading position, pull thread slack in front of the two needles, or even turn the tension dials to zero and pull all the threads through at the same time. You should not have to hold each tension dial release button down at the same time. Those buttons where meant to pull thread changes through without any tension, one dial at a time.
I want to get a machine that will allow me serging and/or coverstiching on ANY kind of fabric! I am undecided among three of the machines you sell: the Juki MO735, the Brother 2340CV and 1034. I mainly would like to know what the differences among them are, and if such differences would justify the difference in pricing. It is sometimes hard for me to understand the difference between flatlock and overlock, for example, so not knowing how I could use them in different situations, it doesn't make much sense to get a machine that has them both? So from your expert opinion, which one you would recommend based on what I'm looking for?. Would you recommend that, instead I buy two separate serger and a coverstitch? What would be the main reason for me to buy the MO735 instead of the two others, considering it's more expensive?
The 2-thread stitch is for overcasting a single layer of fabric. It does not have the seam, only the overcast. Of course, you can overcast with the 3 or 4 thread stiches as well. The overlock stitch is a seam with overcast built in. It can be 3, 4 or 5 threads. 3 thread would be for very light weight fabrics, since it's narrower. 3 and 4 thread stitches have stretch, so they are the best stitches for knits, but can also be used on wovens. 4 thread stitch is wider than 3 thread stitch, so it is better for medium weight fabrics. The 5-thread stitch is a straight chain stitch and a 3 thread overlock (separate) and is for heavier fabrics and wovens, since it does not stretch. Flatlock is a variation of the 2-thread or 3 thread overlock stitches. The tension is adjusted so there is no seam, only the overcast. When you sew 2 layers together and pull them flat, the seam allowances are enclosed, so they do not stich out to fold to one side or the other. The fabric is pulled "flat." On one side the stitch looks like a normal overlock stitch. On the other side it has threads going crosswise, like a ladder. The stitch is often used decoratively with special threads in the looper. It is used for patchwork or knit garment seams. It's nice to have a serger and a separate coverstitch machine, especially if you will use the coverstith often. It saves you time converting from one stitch to the other. However, that's not always practical, space-wise. Once you've made the change a couple of times, it will become quicker and eeasier for you. You can leave the chain stitch looper thread (also used for the coverstitch) through the threading path (except the eye of the looper), so you can tie on and pull new threads through, thus saving a lot of time when you make changes. The sergers and coverstitch machines you listed are all good quality. None are made in Japan. However, the production is supervised by the Japanese and we have not noticed any quality problems since the production was shifted out of Japan. The advantage of the Juki MO735 is that it is the most heavy-duty machine, since Juki uses their industrial parts and expertise in its manufacture:
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp05031-0267.html.
The advantage of the Brother 2340CV is that its coverstitch is a little bit wider and it has some wonderful accessories to help you guide your fabric for various operations. My first choice would be to get one of the Juki 4 or 5 thread sergers and the Brother coverstitch only machine. We also carry the Brother 1034D serger, which has many more features than most sergers and comes at a great price:
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp01083-0069.html.
If you want only one machine, I'd get the Juki MO735. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. We look forward to serving your equipment needs. Thanks, Annette Douthat
Can you tell me if this machine does the Hem stitching that is used on baby blankets where the crochet goes in the holes it makes?
Kandace. No, the Brother 2340CV is a Bottom Cover Hem Stitching machine that makes the serger-type stretchy bottom hems in sportsware knits, with two or three staight topstitches on top. A Hemstitching machine makes the holes in heirloom fabrics to attach entredaux to. You can use a Schmetz single or double wing needle and heirloom stitches built into most top of the line computer sewing machines at http://www.allbrands.com/products/abc0728.html Let me know if you have any questions about them. John Douthat, owner and tech.
How do I remove fabric from under the foot at the end of a cover hem stitch seam? Beth
Beth, yes, sewing off on a scrap of fabric or tissue is better than trying to sew off on air, even when pulling thread chain with fabric gently from behind the foot.
I am more familiar with what we do in the shop when we get to the end of the fabric. We rock the hand wheel back and forth while pulling on the fabric and thread chain to the left and under the foot (even finger pulling slack in needle threads anywhere above the needle eye). Rocking the hand wheel back and forth releases thread from the take up lever and produces enough slack in the thread to pull off in increments.
You can alsocut the thread tail leaving an inch of so to weave back into the stitches on the fabric with a seaming needle, or cut off thread chain at the fabric edge and use a drop of fabric glue (Sewers Aid) to secure.. If you are sewing tubular cuffs, sleeves or hems, just sew over where your started from to lock in the stitches.
