Hague Linker D280H Hand Crank Linking Machine D001, 7 Gauge PPI Points/In* Seam and Finish Knit Panels, Edges, Necklines, Collars, Sleeves, Side Seams

Silver Reed SK840 is 4.5mm between needles. Hague Linker D280E has 7 points/in which is 3.63mm between points. They do not have to match since the  SK840 tension dial, pattern and yarn weight will determine the actual distance between stitches.Uniform linking for seams can still be accomplished regardless of the distance between needles or the distance between stitches, just like sewing machine stitches can on different thread count fabrics.   http://www.b-hague.co.uk/pdf/Linker%20Gauge.pdf  Choosing a suitable linker for my knitting machineThe Hague D280 Linking Machine is available in 3 different gauges, standard 7pt, fine 10pt, and fine 12pt.D001 - HAGUE D280H HAND LINKERD002 - HAGUE D280E ELECTRIC LINKERBoth these linkers are Standard Gauge and have 7 Points per inch (25mm), and are suitable for all standardgauge knitting machines, such as all Brother Standard Gauge Punch Card & Electronic Machines KH830, 836,840, 860, 864, 869, 881, 890, 891, 900, 910, 940, 950, 950i, 965, 965i & 970. Or Standard GaugeKnitmaster/Silver machines SK210, 260, 280, 360, 580, 600, 700, 840, Zippy & Creative 245. Plus all othermakes of Standard Gauge knitting machines.D004 - HAGUE D280FE10 FINE GAUGE ELECTRIC LINKERThis linker is a Fine Gauge and has 10 Points per inch (25mm), and is suitable for all fine gauge knittingmachines, such as Silver SK270, SK830, plus other 7g fine gauge machinesD004A - HAGUE D280FE12 FINE GAUGE ELECTRIC LINKERThis linker is a Fine Gauge and has 12 Points per inch (25mm), and is suitable for fine gauge knitting machinesand some professional knitting machines.The most popular domestic knitting machines are standard gauge; these have needles that are 4.5mm apart.On fine gauge knitting machines the needles are either 3.5 or 3.6mm apart.On chunky/bulky knitting machines the needles are 9mm apart.Once the garment is knitted it is placed onto the linkers “point ring” (needle bed) to join the seams together.The gauge of a knitted fabric can vary depending on the pattern, the kind of yarn used, and the tension it isknitted at.Most machine knitters mainly use the linker on closed edges such as side seams, arms etc. where the gaugeof the linker is not quite as important, but if you are going to link open stitches and do stitch for stitch linking it isimportant that the linker is the correct gauge, otherwise you may find you will have to stretch the knitting too faror you may struggle to get the open stitches on the linker.THE STITCH GAUGEIf you are unsure which linker would be most suitable for your knitting, check the gauge of your knitting.Knit a sample of knitting (a swatch), ideally in the stitch pattern and tension to be used in the garment. Theswatch edges affect the reading of the gauge, so it's best that the swatch be at least 4" square. Then remove itfrom the machine and place it on the table, now using a ruler count the number of stitches per 1 inch / 25mm,this is the stitch gauge of the sample. You can then choose the linker with the nearest number of points per 1” /25mm, which would be the most suitable for your machine.Unfortunately we no longer make a Chunky gauge domestic linker, but if you are knitting on a chunky/bulkyknitting machine, or hand knitting, you can still join the seams together on our standard gauge linker, but youwill have to use a thinner yarn of the same colour (no thicker than a 4ply) to join the seams. You can also linkopen stitches by placing them on alternate points.www.haguedirect.co.ukHague DistributionUnit E2 Trent Park Trading Estate, Little Tennis Street South, Nottingham. NG2 4EU

Why spend hours sewing seams by hand?
When they can be professionally linked in a fraction of the time !

With the Hague Linker, making up is a real pleasure and you can achieve that truly professional finish, too.
It's so quick & simple to use, you'll save hours of tedious hand sewing.

If you have a knitting machine, you need a Hague Linker. It joins the seams of knitted garments such as sleeves, body, collars, bands etc & can also be used for decorative linking.

You just place the knitting on the circular point ring, which rotates as the handle is turned (or the foot pedal is operated on the electric version) & the seams are linked together. It's as simple as that!

Just look at all the other features the Hague Linker includes; - Circular linking action links perfectly without any joins. - Seams are so neat you can hardly see them. - Use the same yarn as the garment for perfect seams that wear and stretch with it. - Links up whole necklines and bands of any length. - Even matches patterns perfectly, stitch for stitch. - Produces exciting surface patterning with cords, braids, sequins and ribbons. - Puts lovely professional pin tucks at your fingertips.

The Hague Linker is made in Britain by a company that has supplied the quality knitwear trade for over a 140 years. This experience has culminated in a linker designed especially for home use to give a professional finish.

Hi John, Thank you for getting in touch, although I am sorry to hear about the unexpected and unfortunate slight difficulties that your customer is currently experiencing with their Hague Linking machine. I would like to reassure you and your customer that all of our products must pass a strict quality control procedure, which includes a full testing process, before being dispatched to our customers.

I think from the sound of how the problem/s have been described that it will initially be worth trying some remote assistance. I think it’s likely that with a little assistance, the machine should be able to be back up and running correctly without a service. However it is difficult to know for sure without being able to physically see the machine, so I cannot say this with absolute certainty.

We are happy to try and help. It may be a good idea for you and your customer to have a look at the helpful documents section on our website. You’ll find frequently asked questions and answers, helpful articles, instructions and videos all exclusive to us on our website. If you’ve not yet been here, please find a direct link to this below, this may help you now and/or in the future:

Download Instructions, Help, Articles, Videos

Firstly, I would recommend realigning the needle. Please follow the process below with reference to the Linker Instruction Manual on changing the needle (I have attached this document to this email to help).

Please check that the needle is set in the Linker correctly and that you have the correct Needle for your machine. Do not change any looper settings or the needle bar square at this stage.

Now, please put the needle into the needle bar square. Put the needle in upside down, and then turn it 180 degrees.

When the needle is as far out as possible, the tip of the needle must be set level with the end of a point in the point ring. Gently tighten the needle, so it grips the needle, but not super tight. When you start to turn the handle, the needle must go straight down the centre of the point, so as the needle goes inwards, ensure it definitely goes straight down the groove of the point. When you’ve definitely got the needle straight, tighten it up, and be very careful that the needle doesn’t move whilst you tighten it up. You may need to gently hold the needle when tightening.

Once you’ve tightened it up, please re-check that it is still set straight.

Turn the handle clockwise, so that the needle is now right in, the needle should be fractionally above the looper (about a half of a millimetre). As the looper starts to rise, the looper should graze the needle, slightly touching the side of the needle so as to pick up the yarn. If the looper does not touch the needle, then the machine could miss a stitch as it won’t pick up the yarn. This may be indicating that the needle is not set straight.

It may also help to watch the video for changing the Needle on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/3-BWS98NVDY

After you have done this, if the machine is still not operating correctly, it may be worth checking the Ratchet Springs. I would only do this once you have realigned the needle and only if it still isn’t operating right. Please find attached the instructions detailing how to check the Ratchet Springs.

I hope all of this information helps, as I’ve said, I don’t think from the sound of how the problem/s have been described that it is in need of major work, however it is difficult to know for sure without being able to physically see the machine. Kind Regards, Jake